Punta Ballena

Soak up sea views and sunsets in the tranquil resort of Punta Ballena, which is perched on a rocky headland. The town was made famous by Casapueblo, Carlos Páez Vilaró’s extraordinary building, which is today a unique hotel. Punta Ballena offers countryside walks, biking and relaxation.

The town is located on the scenic coast of Río de la Plata and is an unassuming place. A wave of new investment has seen luxury condominiums built alongside the traditional fishermen’s houses, yet there is nothing here to spoil the peace and quiet.

Although it has other charms, Punta Ballena will forever be known across South America as the home of Casapueblo. This eccentric hotel started life as the home of artist Carlos Páez Vilaró. He began working on the building in 1958. Over the course of 30 years the building grew, designed and built with no plan other than artistic freedom. Visit today and you will see a beautiful jumble of white-washed buildings resembling the cave-like mud nests of the local hornero birds. Whether as a guest or a day visitor, peruse the museum, gallery and studio for a glimpse into Vilaró’s life or arrive at dusk for a musical spectacle played in time to the setting sun.

Make sure you set aside time on your visit to take in the views across the bay toward the city of Punta del Este from the dramatic Punta Ballena cliffs, which are 164 feet (50 meters) high. Punta Ballena also has a handful of good restaurants and a few stores, as well as bike rentals to get you out into the countryside where you can breathe in the fresh sea air.

Exploring the Lussich Arboretum is a must during any visit to this area. Wander the paths amid 370 exotic and 60 native species of trees from all corners of the world.

Ride the bus from Montevideo airport to reach Punta Ballena in around 2 hours or get to the town from Punta del Este in just minutes. The resort is small enough to explore on foot or by bike.