The crew that takes you out is a fishing family of these waters — their family lived on Espíritu Santo itself. They don't read the island off a script; they grew up on it.

Return hotel transport, certified marine biologist guides, ceviche made on board with the morning's catch, and a grand finale at Balandra included at no extra cost.

This is the Gulf of California, the sea Jacques Cousteau called the world's aquarium.

Sea lion swimming is regulated to protect the colony: in-water encounters run September through May. From June to August, during their breeding season, we observe the colony from the boat and add extra reef snorkelling time, when visibility is at its best.

Wildlife is wild — dolphins, whales, mobula rays and sea turtles appear often, but no sighting can ever be guaranteed.