it is assumed that this structure was built around the same time as the Royal Enclosure, it is unknown who commissioned the Fasilides Baths. It is generally attributed to either Emperor Fasilides or his son Iysau I. The compounds walls have been slowly engulfed by the thick slithering roots of ancient badian trees that are now intertwined with the crumbling brickwork. The compound consists of the bath, a central tower and bridge that's used when the bath is full. Once a year, on the 19th January, the bath is filled as part of the Ethiopian Orthodox Christian celebration Epiphany, also known as Timkat. The festival is meant to replicate Christ’s baptism in the River Jordan. Gondar during Timkat is one of the most magical cultural experiences in Ethiopia. Pilgrims from across the country arrive to partake, and witnessing the festivities play out amongst ancient structures is a testament to the importance of historical sites like this for Ethiopians, their traditions and values.

Debire Birhan Selassie Church, meaning 'Trinity and Mountain of Light' is the most famous place of worship in Gondar. On approach, twelve rounded stone towers - representing the 12 apostles - stand stoically guarding the church, as they have done for centuries. The 13th tower, the tallest of the bunch, represents the Lion of Judah. Eagle-eyed visitors can see an imprint of the Lion on the top half of the tower. Originally built in the 17th century by Emperor Eyasu II, the present structure was redeveloped during the 1880s following a raid by marauding Sudanese Dervishes and lightning strike that reduced the original building to rubble. Originally painted for those unable to read, every inch of the church walls are covered in vivid depictions of biblical verses. With the help of a guide, the church provides a stunning visual synopsis of important biblical stories. Along the circular cornice near the top of the walls, 135 cherubs sit idly gazing down, across the vast cavernous

Gonder, several craft stalls with ‘Stars of David’ and ‘Falasha Village’ signs signal what’s really the former Wolleka. Once home to a thriving population of (Ethiopian Jews), most were airlifted to Israel in the 1980s and today none remain. There are a few original houses with interesting artwork on their fronts and the small synagogue; for Birr10 you can look inside, but be prepared for an entourage of persistent sales kids. After the adoption of Christianity as the state religion, Falashas had their land confiscated for refusing to convert. To survive, many became skilled craftspeople. Research suggests Falashas may have provided the labour for the construction and decoration of Gonder’s castles. Sadly, the pottery for which they were once famous has mostly degenerated into half-hearted art, though the figurine trinkets do make cool souvenirs. Project Ploughshare Women’s Crafts Training Centeris helping disadvantaged women rekindle this craft, along with traditional Amhara weaving