Sucumbíos

Ecuador
Photo by Edgar Figueiredo
Ecuador’s remote Amazonian basin sprawls across this northeastern province. Explore its rivers, mountains and rare swampland from the provincial capital.

Visit Sucumbios province, bordered by Colombia in the north and Peru in the east, truly the last frontier for Ecuadorian explorers. Until the 20th century, the province was almost untouched by non-indigenous peoples however, the discovery of oil in the soil changed everything.

Today, the provincial capital of Nueva Loja is a base for the Texaco/Chevron oil company and the area surrounding the city has undergone significant environmental changes. While the introduction of industry to the region has devastated some of the virgin forest of the province, it has increased accessibility for tourists. From here, tour the Amazon basin, the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve and Reventador, a large active volcano of the region.

Nueva Loja, or Lago Agrio as it is referred to by many in the area, is an entry point to the region. Skip its seedy bars and dangerous-after-dark streets and head for the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, one of the most treasured natural regions of Ecuador. The large reserve has an unusual ecosystem rarely found so close to mountainous areas like the Andes. High levels of water and relatively poor drainage have created flooded forests, marshy swamps and black water rivers. The result is an abundance of native species of plants and animals. Look for tapirs, deer and otters alongside the most famous large cats of the Amazon, the jaguar and puma. Find eco-hotels in the park, allowing you to stay overnight surrounded by the rainforest.

Traveling through the province, pass the powerful Aguarico River, the lifeblood of the region, and the towering Reventador, the province’s active volcano.

Sucumbios is connected by a series of major roads, most of which pass through Nueva Loja. Fly to the provincial capital from Quito for the fastest access to the region. Book ahead to stay in the eco-hotels of the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve.