The summer-time 'pleasure garden' for the Prince Archbishops, where nothing is quite as it seems.
Salzburg definitely has grander (and more historically important) palaces than the Hellbrunn Palace. But it's unlikely you'll find any as playful as this 17th century Baroque villa. Not that the 'Schloss Hellbrunn' is lacking in architectural significance—it is one of the finest examples of the early Baroque styles in Austria. And its historical connections are pretty strong too—the Prince Archbishops of Salzburg built, and then used this palace, from 1612.But the clue to the reason for its fame is given by the fact it has no bedroom. This wasn't a residence for its Prince Archbishops. Instead it was where they came to 'play', during the daylight hours of Austria's long summer months. And their medium of choice, for all that fun, was provided by the gurgling spring that leaps out of the ground here.The Palace was built according to a plan for some seriously mischievous 'water games', hatched by the 32nd Prince Archbishop. He had a 'pleasure garden' built just west of the main palace, a formal Italian garden of walkways, ponds, flower beds—and trick fountains. These squirt water at unexpected points around the garden—from behind trees, under bushes, even shooting up from seats. It was called the Wasserspiele, and was an enormous success with the playful Prince Archbishop. Not only did he succeed in soaking his guests, but he kept himself bone-dry—only he knew the spots the water would miss.These amazing feats of hydraulic engineering are still working, to the delight of today's visitors. Perhaps the most famous is the 'Roman Theatre', with its marble table and seats. These would be set to 'start bubbling' during the Archbishop's dinner, no doubt producing a few failings in dining decorum. There are other pleasures to be had on a tour of the Palace: magnificent ballrooms in the main villa, an open-air theatre in an old quarry, and several grottos and follies in the garden. One thing you'll be guaranteed at Hellbrunn, it's a whole palace of fun—and some rather soggy clothes.
