Copenhagen’s dilapidated old harbour district has been revitalised with a string of lively bars and stylish restaurants.
During the 17th century, Nyhavn (New Harbour) was a vibrant hub of commerce and trade. But as new generations of shipping outgrew its confines and demanded bigger and better-equipped harbours, the area sank into decline. By the early part of the 20th century the buildings along this once-prosperous waterfront were run-down and the seedy streets were notorious no-go areas. However, over recent decades the lovely old buildings have been given a new lease of life at the heart of a revitalised entertainment district.
The transformation began in 1977, when the Danish National Museum stepped in to preserve part of the waterfront as the Veteran Ship and Museum Harbour. Many classic boats, some of which are still in use, are now berthed here. At the end of the harbour is the Memorial Anchor, a tribute to the Danish servicemen who lost their lives in the Second World War.
Wander along the south side of the harbour to admire the historic craft and explore some of the cobblestone lanes leading off the waterfront. The long-neglected townhouses that tightly pack the narrow streets have now been brightly painted in rainbow hues and reopened as trendy bars and eateries, with live music adding to the bohemian vibe.
The opposite side of the harbour is lined with taverns and restaurants, many with outdoor terraces that make the most of the picturesque view across the water. The international menus cater for all tastes, but seafood is especially popular in this city on the water. Try a platter of smoked and pickled fish – a Scandinavian speciality – or ask for the catch of the day, freshly grilled to perfection. Another local favourite is a simple open sandwich of prawns or cold meats and salad, washed down with a refreshing glass of real Danish lager.
Nyhavn is on the eastern edge of the city centre and is perfect for exploring on foot or by bicycle. As most of this part of the city is traffic-free, it’s hard to reach by car and even harder to find parking, but there are bus services for those coming from further afield.
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